Piazza Cittadella, Church of S. Alessandro, Palazzo Pfanner

Going down the staircase of the Church of S. Paolino and turning on the right into the street with same name, we find Piazza dei Cocomeri (on the right) and Piazza Cittadella (on the left).

Piazza dei Cocomeri was once called Piazza S. Sensio because a church, consecrated to the martyr, stood over this site. It was destroyed in the 19th century. The square was also called "di Poggio" from the name of the family, which owned a lot of buildings in this part of the town, called then Via di Poggio. It's here that on 22nd December of 1858 the great composer Giacomo Puccini was born. Portraits, busts, photos, medals, pieces of furniture, the piano, the original scores and the autograph letters written by Puccini in the last days of his life are exhibited in the native house of the composer, where today is the museum, managed by Fondazione Puccini (Puccini's Foundation). A monument in Puccini's honour was built in Piazza Cittadella. Turning on the right into Via di Poggio and then on the left into Via Calderia we arrive to Piazza S. Salvatore (where there are the Romanesque church and the fountain, made by Lorenzo Nottolini).
Walking along Via degli Asili we find Palazzo Pfanner, built in 1667. Here we can admire a beautiful eighteenth-century garden with vintage statues.

  Piazza Cittadella, the monument to Giacomo Puccini


Coming back along Via degli Asili and Via S. Giustina, turning on the left into Piazza S. Matteo and walking straight till Via Burlamacchi, we find on the left Via S. Alessandro, which opens onto the square and the church of the same name.

garden and the back of Palazzo Pfanner  

The church of S. Alessandro is considered the symbol of the Romanesque architecture in Lucca (as also the critic and historian Carlo Ludovico Ragghianti said). It was built by the bishop Anselmo (before he became Pope Alexander II), who in 1056 let the relics of the martyr into a inner crypt lay. The church has a basilical plan and is divided into three naves The relief on the upper part of the façade depicts S. Alessandro on the throne. In the 15th century, sideways over the Romanesque portal with rosette lintels, was built a niche, where Vincenzo Consani carved in the 19th century a high relief, depicting a Virgin of the Council surrounded by two angels.

  Church of S.Alessandro Maggiore, side door
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